View from Penzion Uzumko (“hotel near the castle”)

I’ve arrived in the fairy tale town of Cesky Krumlov, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and guess where I’m staying?!? On the steps of the castle!!  It’s extraordinary!  I’m lucky to have the companionship of Zoe Brooks, a Brit who fell in love with this place ten years ago. It was natural for her because she majored in history at Oxford and visiting Cesky Kremlov is like stepping back in time. So she bought an old farmhouse to renovate and began Czech Tours.  She was generous enough to take me on for a few days in between tours.

Walking through the castle and town with Zoe is like walking with an encyclopedic hostess.  She points out Renaissance frescoes that have survived and the process used to ornament the buildings by layering and scraping plaster.

But, of course, the highlight of our time together was a food item: the European hot chocolate I’ve heard about but hadn’t experienced.  It was like rich, velvety chocolate pudding–but not TOO thick.   A celestial delight.

I occasionally woke to the sound of church bells and drifted back to sweet dreams.  I can’t wait to see what Zoe has planned for us tomorrow!